Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Reporting PROGRESS

I don't think anyone involved in the swap will see this so I'm going to post a picture of my swap shawl being blocked.



Tomorrow's post will be about the round blanket progress. I'm working on it today. I cannot start anything else until I get my languishing projects finished.

I can't believe 2015 is almost over. I've hardly gotten used to writing the year on things and now I'll have to work on writing and thinking 2016. I sure hope it's a better year than the last but I'm not going to hold my breath. I fear it will be full of anguish and hard work. Why? Because it seems that has been our lot the past five years or so. It's just one thing after another. But "This too shall pass" and so we just carry on. Got any hot plans? None here. Just hangout and go to bed early. We are just such exciting people to be around, aren't we?


Before I sign off, I'd like to share a recipe with you. I made chicken noodle soup yesterday and we were out of bread so I thought I'd toss some quick bread together -- biscuits or something. I found a recipe for Butter Biscuits and rather than making them as drop biscuits I put them in a pan like cornbread. I baked it for 45 minutes in my convection oven so if you are using a standard oven it might take a bit longer. They were REALLY good. Here's the recipe as I modified it:

4-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 c. butter or margarine (I used solid coconut oil)
1-1/8 cup milk
3 cups flour (I used 2 cups of white flour and 1 cup of oat bran)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup sour cream

You can mix this with your mixer or by hand. The dough will be kind of soft -- not firm like baking powder biscuits or cornbread. Almost a thick pancake batter consistency. I poured it into an 8" stone baking dish and popped it in a 400 degree oven. It said 450 but I thought that was WAY too hot. If you are going to do drop biscuits they will be kind of flat and you would bake them for 10 to 2 minutes. Makes about 24 it says. (As runny as this batter is they would be really flat, I think.)

I sprinkled the top with Parmesan cheese for the last few minutes and they were a big hit with the soup. We'll have the last of the soup and bread for lunch today. I think soup is always better the next day, don't you?



Monday, December 28, 2015

Sunshine On My Shoulders Wrap Pattern

I made up this pattern a LONG time ago and when I tried out a pattern writing software I put this one in it. I'm not sure I like how it turned out at all. I'm thinking I need to rewrite it entirely. I gifted the shawl to my daughter-in-law as she had the cutest yellow and white sundress that just needed this pretty little thing. Unfortunately I saw her in the dress several times but never had the shawl along. Instead she had a white sweater that she wore. It really did hurt my feelings but I finally decided that I couldn't let it bother me. If it did then I shouldn't gift the things I make. I kind of learned that lesson when I cross-stitched a BEAUtiful pillow for my brother for Christmas one year. It took me nearly the whole year working on nothing else to get it finished. It was really complicated. I was so excited to give it to him. I just knew it would be perfect for his living room. Well, it was. When I went to visit the following summer it was in the cat's box and he had used it to sharpen his claws on. The threads were all pulled out and you couldn't even tell what it was. I swore then that nothing I EVER made was going into that house. I've kept my word. I'd rather someone return it to me than to either not use it or abuse it. In fact, I had a really pretty scarf that I made for a daughter-in-law and she actually returned it to me and said she really didn't have anything to wear it with. My daughter nearly snatched it right out of her hands with a "Boy, I do!" I was so glad she returned it rather than throw it away or let it languish somewhere. 

SUNSHINE ON MY SHOULDERS WRAP





Rectangle Shawl
Constructed Top Down

Designed by Bev Matheson
One Yarn After Another


Pattern Name: Sunshine on My Shoulders
Size: Standard Woman


YARN DESCRIPTION:
 Omega Perle Sol; 1002 Straw; acrylic; wash and dry

GAUGE DATA:
Gauge is not important for this pattern
Body crocheted using # G US hook

FINISHED DIMENSIONS: (ins)
        SHAWL WIDTHS            SHAWL LENGTHS
    Main Panel  20.9                     63.3
        Border   5.1
         Total  31.1                     73.5

PATTERN:

Row 1: Dc in 4th ch from hook (counts as first dc), dc in next 2 ch; ch 3, sk 3,* dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sk 3 *. Repeat * to * ending with 3 dc. Ch 3 and turn.
Row 2: Sk 1, 5 dc in next st, sk 1, dc in middle of ch 3 of previous row, sk 1 dc, 5 dc in 2nd dc, sk 1 dc and dc in middle of ch 3 of previous row. You repeat this sequence to the end of the row ending with 5 dc in middle dc of previous row and 1 dc in last dc of previous row. Ch 3 and turn. (This is the first dc of the next row which is a repeat of Row 1 above.)
Row 3: is a basic repeat of Row 1 except that you skip the first dc of the cluster below and do 3 dc in the top of the cluster. You then continue by ch 3 and then do 3 more dc in the top of the cluster to the end.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to desired length.
MAIN PANEL:
1. Chain 105 sts on size G hook. Start work in double crochet.
2. Work even for 412 rows (63.3 ins).
3. Tie off.

BORDER PANEL: This pattern was originally designed without a border but one can be added if desired.
1. Using size G hook and starting at the lower left corner with right side of work facing, work 104 sts from the bottom, 316 sts from the left side, 104 sts from the top, and 316 sts from the right side. Total 840 sts.2. Work in chosen border pattern along each section for 33 rows, shaping at corners as follows:
... Inc 1 st (both ends of row) in the next row, then every 2 rows 8 times, then every row 16 times.
2A. Corners. Mark each corner stitch. This stitch will be worked plain on every row with the increase shaping on either side of it.
3. Tie off.

FINISHING:
1. Darn/weave/sew in all loose ends.
2. BLOCK. Really, it makes all the difference.

AMOUNT OF YARN REQUIRED TO MAKE GARMENT:
WARNING. THIS IS A ROUGH ESTIMATE ONLY. Measure a sample piece for a more accurate calculation.
Amount needed:
17.0 for main shawl panel
12.4 for borders
29.4 Ounces TOTAL

Saturday, December 26, 2015

Have you missed me?

Highly improbable since I have no followers.


I have been busy though. Christmas stuff you know. Family and friends -- what's not to love about that?


Friday, December 18, 2015

Progress to Date

I purchased some handspun wool thinking maybe if it was all natural that I would be able to use it. This is SO natural that it has little flecks of straw in it. Now THAT's natural (but also kinda creepy if you think about it -- what else is in there?). Anyway, it's a fingering weight and in all honesty it's not a bad yarn but even looking at it makes my eyes water. I'm making a narrow chevron scarf that when blocked will hopefully be much larger. I'll only be able to work on it bits at a time because I am pretty allergic to it. It even made my fingers kind of blister-like.


The blanket is coming along nicely but probably not going to be done for Christmas. Maybe our anniversary in February? It will still be welcome then as February is probably the chilliest month here in Arizona. It has been unseasonably cold here this winter. The heat has been on the whole time and The Hubster even insulted the pipes in the garage to make sure they didn't freeze a few nights ago.


My mom is just like a teenager on her phone. She has an iPhone and is on it all the time. That index finger is either checking Facebook, emails, texts or playing "Solitary" as she calls it. The other morning she fell asleep with her finger mid-tap. She sat that way for a good 15-20 minutes. Really, she did. I've never seen anything like it. She got a good laugh out of this picture and threatened me that it better not make it to Facebook. LOL! Maybe tomorrow. ;-)


Are you ready for Christmas? One of our sons and DIL are coming o Tuesday and will stay until Saturday. Can't wait to see them.


Sunday, December 13, 2015

It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas

The tree is up and the few decorations we brought with us are out. We are having a group from our church here on Monday evening and so there are mini-Bundt cakes baked and spiced cider to be prepared.

I put a turkey breast in the Crockpot for dinner tonight. We'll have it with stuffing and a salad. The one I have used for the past several years makes a LOT of stuffing so I'm going to try and make it smaller. Sometimes that works and sometimes it doesn't.

I got all my packages mailed and can now just relax and enjoy some fun crochet. I'm working on a shawl for a swap so I can't share with you what it looks like but I am using Berroco Vintage DK and it's looking so pretty. Maybe I should just keep it?

Am still also working on the blanket. If the sun comes out enough I'll take another photo of it and update this blog entry. I've been working on adding some of my patterns back to this blog so please check out some of the older entries. More will be coming. My biggest problem is trying to find the photos used in the patterns. For some reason I can't save them or move them over. Oh well, such is life, right?


Ayasha Baby Cardigan Pattern in Tunisian Crochet

AYASHA CARDIGAN
     



The Ayasha (“Little One”) Cardigan is worked in Tunisian crochet.
The body of the sweater is Tunisian honeycomb, with a ribbed border around the waist and cuffs. The collar is created in single crochet.

Original Design by Beverly Matheson
One Yarn After Another


SKILL LEVEL    Advanced Beginner/Intermediate

SIZE     12 months


MATERIALS

            Solid Color: I Love This Yarn, sport weight, 230 yards/skein, 100% acrylic
                        White Tweed, 3 skeins (approximately 425 yards total)
Colorblock: Kertzer Northern Sport, sport weight, 170 yards/skein, 100% acrylic, Shade NS951003 (red), 1 skein; Shade NS950817 (Yellow), 2 skeins.
            Tunisian Hook size I (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
            Tunisian Hook size G (4.0 mm) or two sizes smaller than other Tunisian hook
            Crochet Hook size J (6.0 mm), or one size larger than largest Tunisian hook
            Tapestry needle
            Five small buttons (1/2”)

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS

            Chain (ch)
            Fasten off (fo)
            Loop, loops (lp, lps)
            Right Side (RS)
            Single crochet (sc)
            Skip (sk)
            Stitch, stitches (st, sts)
            Tunisian purl stitch (Tps)
            Tunisian simple stitch (Tss)
            Wrong Side (WS)
            Yarn over (yo)

ADDITIONAL NOTES

§  Each Tunisian row consists of a forward pass and return pass that counts as one row. Do not turn your work; the RS is always facing you.
§  Always skip the first lp on each row (the one at the leading edge). The lp on your hook counts for that stitch.
§  In this pattern always end a forward pass with a Tss anchored firmly in the last lp on the row, as well as the horizontal thread that runs behind it.
§  Additionally, the last st on the forward pass is always a Tss. That means that sometimes you will have two Tss at the end of a forward pass.
§  The number of chain stitches you start with is the number of stitches you will have on subsequent rows.
§  Every return pass is worked as follows: Yo, pull through 1 lp. * Yo, pull through 2 lps. Repeat from * across until 1 lp remains on hook.

EXPLANATION OF STITCHES

Tunisian Simple Stitch

Row 1: Ch number indicated in pattern. Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up lp, * insert hook in next ch, yo pull up lp. Repeat from * across, leaving all lps on hook. Do not turn. Return.

Row 2: Sk first vertical bar. * Insert hook under next vertical bar, keeping hook to the front of the work, yo, pull up lp. Repeat from * across, leaving all lps on hook. Do not turn. Return.

Tunisian Purl Stitch

Row 1: Ch number indicated in pattern. Bring yarn to front of work, insert hook in second ch from hook, bring yarn around to back of hook, yo, pull up lp, * bring yarn to front of work, insert hook in next ch, bring yarn around to back of work, yo, pull up lp. Repeat from * across, leaving all lps on hook. Do not turn. Return.

Row 2: Sk first vertical bar. * Bring yarn to front of work; insert hook under next vertical bar, keeping hook to the front of the work bring yarn around to back of hook, yo, pull up lp. Repeat from * across, leaving all lps on hook. Do not turn. Return.

GAUGE (for body, unblocked)

            20 stitches = 5.5 inches
            12 rows = 4 inches

Note: For gauge swatch, ch 20 with larger hook. Row 1: Tps in 2nd st from hook. * Tss in next st, Tps in next st. Repeat from * across. Final st on row should be Tss. Return.  Row 2: Tss in 2nd st from hook. * Tps in next st, Tss in next st. Repeat from * across. Final st on row should be Tss. Return.  Continue 12 rows.

CARDIGAN BACK


Ribbing: With smaller Tunisian hook, ch 46.

Row 1: Tss in 2nd ch from hook, * Tps in each of the next two sts, Tss in each of the next two sts. Repeat from * to end of row (46 lps on hook). Return.

Row 2-4: Tss in 2nd st from hook. * Tps in each of the next two sts; Tss in each of the next two sts. Repeat from * to end of row (46 lps). Return.

Row 5: This row is all Tss to create the transition from ribbing to honeycomb. Tss in 2nd ch from hook and in every st across. Total 46 lps on hook. Return.

Body of Back: Switch to larger Tunisian hook.

Row 6: Tps in 2nd st from hook. * Tss in next st, Tps in next st. Repeat from * across. Final st on row should be Tss. Return.

Row 7: Tss in 2nd st from hook. * Tps in next st, Tss in next st. Repeat from * across. Final st on row should be Tss. Return.

Note: You will be working Tps into Tss, and Tss into Tps. This creates the honeycomb effect.

Row 8-35: Repeat Rows 6 and 7.

Row 36: Insert hook into 2nd st from hook as for Tss, yo, pull to front, yo,pull through both lps (sc made). Insert hook into next st as for Tps, yo, pull to front, yo, pull through both lsp (sc made). Continue working sc in each st across, inserting hook to keep in pattern. Fo.

CARDIGAN FRONT (make 2)

With smaller Tunisian hook, ch 22.

Rows 1-36: As for Rows 1-36 of Back. Here there will be 22 sts per row.

Note: If you are making the color block version of this jacket you will change to the contrasting color on the transition row (Row 5).

SLEEVES (make 2) (for color block version make one of each color)

With small Tunisian hook, ch 34.

Rows 1-36: As for Rows 1-36 of Back. Here there will be 34 sts per row

FINISHING PIECES


Using a tapestry needle, weave in loose ends. Gently steam block.

            Note: See Schematic at the end of this pattern.

ASSEMBLY


v  Using additional yarn and with RS together, sew shoulder seams, leaving 8 sts on the inside of each panel unsewn. These will be for the neck opening.
v  Position sleeves so they are centered along the shoulder. With RS together, sew the sleeves onto the shoulders.
v  With RS together, sew sleeve seams and side seams.

EDGING

Turn sweater RS out. Use J hook.

Row 1: Join yarn at the bottom of ribbing. Sc up front of sweater (35 sts), work 3 sc into next st, sc in each st around neckline (34 sts), work 3 sc in next st, sc down the other side (35 sts). Ch 1, turn.

Rows 2-3: Sc up the front of the sweater, work 3 sc in center sc of 3 sc from corner of previous row. Sc around neckline, work 3 sc in center sc of 3 sc from corner of previous row. Sc down other side of the front of the sweater. Ch 1, turn.

Row 4 (buttonhole row): Sc in first 3 st, ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next 4 sts, * ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * until there are 5 buttonholes. Continue sc up front of sweater, work 3 sc in center sc of 3 sc from corner of previous row, sc around neckline. Only place one sc in 3 sc group from previous row. (You are now starting the collar. Do not continue down the front of the sweater.) Ch 1, turn.


Collar:

Row 1: Sc around neckline, placing only one sc in center of 3 sc from previous row. Ch 1 (this is the final stitch on this row), turn.

Rows 2-4: Sc in each sc across collar. Ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in each sc across. Work 3 sc in last st of collar and continue sc down the front of the sweater to the last st at the hemline. Ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Sl st in each st up the right front, around the collar and down the left front. Fo.

Note: Color block cardigan leaves off all the back and forward rows (Row 3-5).
 

FINISHING


Weave in ends. Block sweater again if desired. Sew on buttons, making sure they are securely attached so a child could not pull them off.

As a further embellishment to the color block cardigan, I added a little flower to the back. Any flower pattern will do should you opt to add this.


Close-Up of Flower Embellishment
SCHEMATIC


Back
(need 1)


Front
(need 2)










































































9 1/2"


9 1/2"







long


long
















































10 3/4" wide


5" wide






1 row of Tss


1 row of Tss





4 rows of ribbing


4 rows of ribbing





Sleeves
(need 2)















Assembly




















1. Sew shoulder seams








(leaving last 8 stitches in the








center for the neck)









2. Sew sleeves to sides








3. Sew side seams up








4. Sew bottom of sleeves




































8" wide










1 row of Tss










4 rows of ribbing









Copyright ã Beverly Matheson, 2010. All rights reserved.  This pattern is for personal use only. All questions or comments should be directed to the designer at bevmatheson@comcast.net.


Many thanks to Sharon Silverman for editorial guidance. To Amy Depew, Sharon Silverman and Lisa Bobbin a very special thank you for testing and editorial assistance.